Tow-in surfing has opened the door for surfers to tackle waves once considered 'unrideable.' However, a debate persists within the surfing community. Some argue tow-in surfing makes big wave riding too accessible, enabling those without sufficient training or ocean knowledge to get a 'free ride' into the sport. This contrasts with surfers who dedicate their lives preparing their bodies to paddle into waves. Nevertheless, both tow-in and paddle-in surfing demand extensive training, wave knowledge and community support.
Tow-in surfing, an extension of the sport, involves being towed into colossal waves by a personal watercraft (PWC) or even a helicopter, requiring a trusting and equally skilled partnership between the surfer and the driver. This evolution was pioneered in the 1980’s by Herbie Fletcher then popularized in the mid-1990s by iconic surfers like Laird Hamilton, Maria Souza, Buzzy Kerbox, and Dave Kalama. While tow-in surfing was initially dominated by men, the sport has seen a significant shift in recent years with the recognition of women.
Female surfers, driven by the same passion and determination as their male counterparts, have made their mark on some of the world's most fearsome waves. Surfers like Jamilah Star, Katie McConnell, Andrea Moller, Justine Dupont, Maria Souza, Michelle des Bouillons, Izzi Gomez, Joana Andrade, Maya Gabeira, Sarah Gerhardt, Polly Ralda, Keala Kennelly, Carissa Moore, Michaela Fregonese, Bianca Valenti, Skylar Lickle, Laura Enever, Momo Sakuma, to name a few, are challenging the status quo. With the emergence of Red Bull Magnitude, the first primetime women’s big wave surfing competition these women are not just pushing boundaries—they are redefining them.
Maya and the Wave
Filmmaker Stephanie Johnes' documentary follows world-champion Brazilian surfer Maya Gabeira as she negotiates not only monstrous waves but also the dynamics within competitive surfing, where she is constantly undermined highlighting the challenges women face in gaining equal recognition. Filmed over a decade, Johnes captures Maya's perseverance through setbacks, injuries, and a near-death experience, offering an intimate look at her life, including the support she receives from her family, friends, and mentors. The film’s narrative is a reminder to us all, that an individual's determination and perseverance of their dream is a journey filled with unexpected consequences and achievements.
Looking back, I think I was drawn to Maya with curiosity about her experience as a woman working in a male - dominated arena. I can relate to her struggles, and hope that viewers will see themselves in her story as well. ~Johnes
Maya Gabeira's journey from the vibrant city of Rio de Janeiro to the formidable waves of Nazaré is a remarkable tale of dedication, passion, and breaking barriers. Born to Fernando Gabeira, a founding member of Brazil's Green Party, and Yamê Reis, a renowned fashion designer, Maya was surrounded by a rich tapestry of cultural and intellectual influences. Despite struggling with asthma, she found her calling in the ocean, where the waves at Arpoador Beach became both her playground and her proving ground. Her love for surfing was so profound that, at just 15, she persuaded her parents to allow her to move to Australia to focus on competitive surfing, a bold move that set the stage for her future success.
From a very young age I had something in me that made me not fit in. I remember seeing the boys surfing, it was just magic. The first time I carried a surfboard I felt like I belonged to something. ~Maya
By the age of 17, Maya had turned professional, securing sponsorships from major brands like Red Bull and Billabong. Her decision to relocate to Hawaii, the heart of big-wave surfing, was pivotal. There, she met Carlos Burle, a legendary big-wave surfer who introduced her to the world of tow-in surfing. Under his mentorship, Maya's reputation for fearlessly tackling massive waves grew, culminating in her successful ride of a 35-foot wave at Waimea Bay. This achievement marked her becoming synonymous with big-wave surfing. Her accolades include multiple ESPY Awards for Best Female Action Sports Athlete, several Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Awards, and Teen Choice awards making her the most decorated big wave surfer, male or female.
People ask, am I afraid? Do I feel fear? I do it because I am afraid, you know it wouldn’t be exhilarating if I wasn’t really scared.~Maya
However, Maya’s journey has not been without its challenges. In 2013, she faced a life-threatening wipeout at Nazaré, where she was knocked unconscious and nearly drowned. The dramatic rescue by her tow partner, Carlos Burle, was a turning point that tested her resilience. Despite widespread criticism and doubts about her future in surfing, Maya's devotion never wavered. After years of recovery, she made a triumphant return to the waves, setting a world record in 2018 for the largest wave ever surfed by a woman. This achievement was not only a personal victory but also a significant milestone for women in big-wave surfing. Her advocacy for women's recognition in the sport led to the creation of a Women's Big Wave Surfing Records category, highlighting the challenges women face in gaining acknowledgment in extreme sports. Two years later, in 2020, Maya goes back to Nazaré and beats her own record during a men’s surfing competition with a whopping 73.5-foot wave, the biggest wave surfed by anyone in the 2019-2020 winter season.
Maya Gabeira's story is a powerful commentary on breaking gender biases in sports. Her relentless pursuit of her dreams, despite the physical and mental challenges, exemplifies the "stick with it" attitude that is crucial for success. Her achievements have opened new narratives and opportunities for women in surfing, proving that gender should not define one's ability to excel. Maya's journey reminds us that the path to success is often fraught with obstacles, but perseverance can lead to extraordinary accomplishments. Her philosophy that courage is also mental, not just physical, inspires many to pursue their dreams with determination. As she once said, "If I die doing what I love, I die," encapsulating her fearless spirit and dedication to her craft. Her story is a testament to the power of resilience and the importance of challenging societal norms to pave the way for future generations.
Lilja (Lil) Merrill, a Bay Area native, avid skateboarder, surfer, & yogi. She’s currently an intern writer for WithitGirl and founder of Ladies Shred; a community minded business empowering girls & women through skateboarding and surfing.
Additional Information
All photos courtesy of Stephanie Johnes
Website: https://mayaandthewave.com/
Instagram: @mayaandthewave
Photography Credits: Soraya Simi
Maya Gabriera: holds the first ever Guinness World Record for the biggest wave surfed by a woman, measured at 68ft. Committed to protecting the ocean she loves, Maya serves on the Board of Directors of Oceana, and as UNESCO’s Ambassador for the Ocean.
Rashida Jones, Executive Producer: an Emmy-nominated and Grammy award-winning actress, writer, director and producer, best known for her beloved roles on the universally acclaimed, fan favorite sitcoms, Parks and Recreation and The Office.
Stephanie Johnes, Director & Producer: a documentary filmmaker who gravitates toward stories of underdogs and dreamers. With a love of music and movement, she crafts intimate films with a compassionate lens on the human experience.
Alexandra Johnes, Executive Producer: A primetime Emmy-winning producer, Alexandra Johnes has worked most notably as a producer of big budget feature documentaries with award-winning directors. Her films have premiered at TIFF, Sundance, Tribeca and SXSW, and have received several awards and nominations.
Julian Cautherley, Executive Producer: an Emmy award-winning filmmaker whose projects have participated at Sundance, Berlin, Toronto, SXSW, Tribeca Film Festivals and have been twice shortlisted for the Academy Awards.
Jorge Lea, Co- producer: A native of Porto, Portugal, Jorge began filming the giant waves of Nazaré in 2011, with the arrival of Garrett McNamara. They made three films together, and Jorge continued to capture every major swell.
Jordana Berg, Editor: has been working as a film editor for over 25 years. During this time she was primarily collaborating with Eduardo Coutinho, considered the most important Brazilian filmmaker of the 20th century.
Shannon Kennedy, Editor: a visual artist, writer and documentary editor. Her award winning editing credits include "A Walk into the Sea", "The Trials of Daryl Hunt", "Prodigal Sons", "VLAST (POWER)", "The Canal Street Madam", "Words of Witness", "La Camioneta”, "3 Days 2 Nights" and "Bulletproof".
Tamiris Lourenço, Co- Editor: is a Brazilian editor and assistant editor who has been dedicating herself to documentary film editing since 2011. Her experience includes films such as "Últimas Conversas" (Eduardo Coutinho, 2015), "Cine Morocco" (Ricardo Calil, 2018), "Legítima Defesa" (Susanna Lira, 2017), "Favela é Moda" (Emílio Domingos, 2019), "Eu sou Carlos Imperial" (Renato Terra and Ricardo Calil, 2016), "Os Arrependidos" (Ricardo Calil, 2021), "Our Land Our Freedom" (Meena Nanji and Zippy Kimundu, 2023), and several others.
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